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Winter Commuting: Part 2 – The Bike

This is the second installment of our three part series focusing on winter commuting.  Part 1 went over the fundamentals; the bare necessities that we suggest for riding in cold weather (in case you missed it).  With that out of the way, we’re now going to focus on killer products and handy techniques that will make your winter commute more enjoyable. 

This post is all about the bike.  We’ll be taking a good look at the parts, accessories, and maintenance that will help turn your bicycle into a sick all weather commuter.  So get your gloves and grow your beard (if applicable) – its winter and time to ride!

 Tires

More than anything else, good tires will greatly increase your ride quality while commuting snow and ice, improving handling, speed, comfort, and safety in wintry conditions.  Here’s why:

  • Non-studded tires slip on ice, despite how wide or knobby they are.  Imagine rocking 18mph through a turn and, without warning, having your rear wheel slip out from under you.  Not a good feeling.  But it doesn’t even take a corner for tires to slip on ice – try pedaling over a frozen patch and most often the rear wheel slips, ending in a sliding crash.
  • Steel studded tires, however, grip the ice and maintain traction.  It is possible for less expensive tires with less studs to still slip in corners, however the likelihood of actually going down is greatly reduced.  Higher quality (and priced) studded tires will generally keep the bike up in all situations, even for out of the saddle pedaling and cornering.
  • Studded tires use a wide width, offering increased footprint, traction, and ride quality.
  • Hard-pack snow and frozen dirt rails can be mighty slippery, even with knobby tires.  Like with ice, studs sink in and provide great traction.

Of course studded tires are not for all.  Depending on the winter climate of your location, they might just not make sense, even if it gets cold.  But if you get extended periods of ice or snow, I would highly suggest them.  They ride fine on pavement, and are worth having for a 10 mile ride even if it only has one potentially dangerous 3-foot patch of ice.

Pedals

Most dedicated cyclists rave about the benefits of clipless pedals.  They are lighter, less bulky, more efficient, and more comfortable than flat pedals.  However, for winter riding, our experiences have shown that, for other reasons, they may not be the best choice. 

Road bike pedals and shoes are not an option – the shoes are too slick to be able to walk in for winter riding.  Mountain shoes and pedals do work ok, however snow can often get packed into the cleat and pedal, causing an icy glob mess that become hard to clip into.  Also, mountain bike shoes are vented for warm weather riding, so they can be extremely cold unless you use booties to insulate the shoe.

For a more durable and warm alternative, we suggest using flat pedals with Power Grips.  This combination allows you to use insulated, waterproof winter boots while you ride.  Power Grips are like toe-cages, except they are much easier to get in and out of and allow you to securely position the boot on the pedal, so you can get the same benefits and control of clipless pedals.  Also, flat pedals and power grips are generally cheaper than clipless pedals, which are nice when riding in the snow, slush, and salt of winter roads.

  • MKS Touring Pedal – Durable, rebuildable, comfortable, and made of lightweight alloy.
  • Power Grips – A great substitute for toe-cages or clipless pedals.  Compatible with the MKS pedals.

Lubricant

More than any other types of riding, and more than any other time the year, winter commuting requires that the bike be well lubricated and maintained.  Wet roads kick up water, dirt, debris, salt, and sand into the drive-train, brakes, and derailleurs.  To keep the bike running smoothly, it is extremely important to keep components clean and the drive-train lubricated.

  • White Lightening Wet Ride – Wet Ride is a chain specific lubricant that’s perfect for the winter commuter.  The thick synthetic based lube coats the chain coats the chain, protecting it from the worst elements.
    • Before applying, clean the chain by wiping it excessively with a rag so there is no dirt, debris, or old dirty lubricant.  If the chain is in really bad shape, take it off the bike and degrease it.
    • Apply Wet Ride to the entire length of the chain.  Let it sit for a while, preferably overnight.  Then take a clean rag and wipe off excess lube off the chain.
    • Rinse and repeat every 5 or so rides, and after every wet and rainy ride.
    • ProGold PG2000 Spray Lubricant – Spray derailleur pivots and brake pivots (rim brakes only!  Don’t get this stuff anywhere near disc brakes) with this durable, water-resistant penetrating lubricant.  It will keep your derailleurs and brakes in good quality, even after getting wet and mucked up.
    • Finish Line Bike Wash Spray – Keep the frame clean and dry.  A dry rag is often sufficient on normal days; be sure to dry off the frame, rims, and spokes.  On mucky rides, use the Bike Wash spray to gently lift off dirt and debris from the frame and components.

For more tips on maintaining your bike and drive-train, check out our blog entry Five Quick Ways to Avoid Costly Bike Repair.

Fenders

Not necessary, but fenders will keep you and your bike much cleaner during the winter months.  As stated before, winter roads can be dirty, and if so, will get to your bike and components.   For workhorse bikes that you don’t mind getting filthy, fenders are ok to skip out on.  But if you’d rather save some life on your derailleurs, brakes, and drive-train, they will make a huge difference.

Standard Fenders – built for frames and forks that have eyelets to mount frames.

Clip on fenders – attaches easily and quickly, and can easily be removed.

For all our fender options, check it out here.

Lights

Good lighting is essential for any commuter, let alone winter commuting.  However, with less daylight in the winter months, being well lit becomes even more important. 

There are basically two types of bike lights out there.  The fist is “to-be-seen” lights, meaning their main intention is for motorists to be able to see you clearly, in any condition.  Our favorite to-be-seen light set is the Planet Bike 1 Watt Blaze and Superflash light set.  The pattern and strength of the Superflash rear light offers great visibility in dark, fog, and rain, and can mount to the seat-post, seat stay, or rear rack.  The Blaze headlight is strong enough for motorists to see you, and on clear mornings/nights can illuminate the road in front.

To-be-seen lights work if most or all of your commute is on lit roads.  However if you are on dark roads or paths, a “to-see” headlight is needed.  The NightRider MiNewt 150 USB is a great headlight that can mount either on the handlebar or helmet, and will clearly illuminate the road ahead.  Pair it with the Planet Bike Superflash rear light for a killer light combo.  Another, simpler option is the Light & Motion Vis 360.  It is a lightweight front and rear light set that mounts both lights on the helmet for complete 360 degree visibility from motorists, and provides a powerful beam to light up the road.

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